This video is a quick overview on how a pool should be plumbed. BASIC planning will go a long way to creating a efficient and easy to service filtration syst…
How Pool Plumbing SHOULD be put together.
by Johnny Technician | Dec 6, 2013 | Pool Services | 25 comments
Is there a reason the heater is before the salt cell? I am looking to
install an electric heat pump and was going to connect it right after the
cell as the last thing before returning to the pool. Thanks!
Well, of course you would NOT want to do that because you would then be
introducing highly concentrated chlorine (and very alkaline water) right
into the heat exchanger. The chlorine itself is horrible and the extremely
high pH will cause any excess calcium to start to precipitate to the walls
of the heat exchanger, because calcium is LESS soluble in hot water…
Always introduce chlorine, or any chemicals, LAST in line to the pool.
Pump cavitation? Why a 3-way in
front of the pump if MD and skimmer are valved?
SDWV 90 on the return not recommended for pressure
Single system pool and spa installations require a gas fired heater for
rapid spa heating. The heat pump is not conducive in certain climates and
may only get three to four months of runtime.
SDWV even on drain or backwash lines aren’t suitable for pressure in most
installations.
I am starting a job with a company called aqua solutions where i live and
was wondering if you had any recommendations as where i should go to learn
some basics. Im new at this and would like to impress my new supervisor.
Any help at all would be much appreciated. Thx kev
The discharge pipe should be longer. To optimize head flow you want to have
at least 4 times the diameter of the pipe in length. (2″ pipe needs 8″
length minimum)
I’d also go 2″ plumbing on 1hp or up. You build friction trying to push
that much flow through a small pipe.
It appears there are wires running on gravel to the chlorine generator. Is
that code there? The pump was pulling air. Also you can wrap a rag around
the male adapter, and then put your channel locks on to tighten. This keeps
from scarring pvc, and a better appearance.
The pool pump is not even fully primed up. THe autopilot salt cell is in
the manifold upside down. You should get into sweep 90s or street 45s.
You have ball valves before the 3-way valve on the intake side, and after
the 3-way on the return. Were the ball valves original and the 3-ways were
added later, or is there some purpose to the redundant valves?
Good question. They are used for ‘locking’ the water at the equipment pad
when the equipment is taken apart for cleaning. this will make the prime up
process MUCH easier and almost instant. They are also used for ‘Air
Locking’ the system durring the winter. I realize the diverters COULD do
some of that but why not make it as SIMPLE for the owner as possible…??
Thanks Jeff.
Yes it will. What you are hearing is actually air being sucked in and
thereby causing the pump to not fully prime up. When you turn the pump off
it will alos allow air back in the line and the water to run all the pool.
This will make the prime up process harder as well. Best note….get it
fixed. 🙂
Hayworth never made a milli volt heater…
My bad your right…
I like the unions because I always wonder about a repair job when I see a
huge manifold all glued up. I will insist upon this when I get my pool
built.
Cartridge filters dont require backwashing. Thats one of the benifits of
them. The ‘drain to waste valve’ is a valve that allows a place for the
dirty water to exit while your cleaning the filter. There is nothing more
aggravating than to clean you pool and filter only to have a ‘poof’ of dirt
get sent back to the pool when you turn the system back on.
That explains that! Fantastic setup.
You should put the 3 way before not after the cartridge filter. Common
mistake, but a bad one! Goldline low salt (1200ppm) is the only way to go.
@Nine– The purpose of the drain to waste to allow the contaminated water
to exit the filter after restart and not send it back to the pool so it HAS
to come after the filter. Putting it in front of the filter accomplishes
nothing.
Well that is not true. When you vacuum up stuff stuff for example why would
you want algae to be filtered and then have the clean water drained out?
Good way to to spend more time cleaning cartridges than you need to. If you
want anyway to flush a cartridge filter attach a valve at the drain port.
From my experience there is no way effective way to flush a cartridge filter
Nine……You are absolutely incorrect. There are 2 ways…. the best way
is to simply pull the cartridge from the canister. It takes less then 2
minutes then vac to waste till your harts content. Or if 2 minutes is too
long for you, open the drain port on the filter canister (which is
PER-FILTER) and discard water out the back.
Well i guess we have different customers in different locations. People
here can not be convinced to yank the cartridges out when they vacuum up
waste. Glad to know your customers have the extra time and patience